Vibrostol Chertezhi
How to make a paving slab with your own hands using molds and a vibrating table Independently to produce concrete tiles for paving paths in the garden - on the strength of any master, there would be a desire. So, Ivan Stoletov from Grodno made a set of tiles for his site, and their cost compared to the purchased was half the cost, not counting the cost of delivery. Probably, I would not have to manufacture the paving slabs myself, but in the firm where I ordered a set of these concrete products, a technological failure occurred - and a simple one could drag on for several months, which was not my plan. This led me to the idea of making a set of tiles with my own hands, the benefit was good warm weather and I had free time. Given the small amount of work, I decided to mold the tiles in plastic forms, and mix the concrete by hand.
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For the same reason, I did not produce a special vibrating table, but I used a simple device, which I'll talk about a little later. I had a certain experience in making large-sized slabs with wooden and metal forms, but there was a specificity, and I had to experiment in something. See also: TOOLS, MATERIALS AND ACCESSORIES FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF THE SELF-MODULAR TILTURE TILE Purchased plastic molds, trowel, spatula, rule, shovel, chopper, hammer, grid for sieving gravel and sand, cement, water, bucket, lubricant and paintbrush (for lubrication of molds), shaker for molding, armature, binding wire. Forms for tiles I needed only four plastic molds to master the required amount, which is about 500 tiles.
It was a great temptation to purchase large-size shapes - 50 X 50 X 5,5 cm or 60 * 60 * 5,5 cm: bribed simplicity of molding and a large area of tile. For comparison, I bought one such form and produced nesnolko prototypes.
The smaller tiles proved to be more profitable, so I decided to use shapes of 30 dimensions '30' Zcm. It took me just over a month to make the whole lot. The process could be speeded up, but I did not rush things: I always had enough work in the dacha section, and I was engaged in tiling in parallel, because concrete in the process of making tiles needs time to set strength both before and after molding. Composition of concrete mixture The composition of the concrete mixture, consistency and viscosity, I chose experimentally. These parameters significantly affect the quality of the tiles (the presence of porous shells in concrete) and the speed of dialing with a mixture of strength.
It was also necessary to choose the right consistency of lubricant, on which the quality of the tiles depends, and the convenience of molding. Concrete mix I took in the following proportion: sand with fine gravel, three volume parts, cement - one part. The mixture was dropped into a metal trough and thoroughly mixed with a trowel (it was easier to mix than with a shovel), gradually adding water and bringing the solution to the state of thick sour cream. And then I got used to using a drill with a nozzle to mix the solution. Krossvord na kazahskom yazike onlajn 24. When mixing concrete, you need to be careful and not rush.
The liquid mixture fills the mold well, but it must be kept for a long time before the molding, otherwise the tiles break easily, especially the corners, and then they take longer to build strength. Conversely, if you prepare a very thick concrete mixture, it is difficult to vibrate, and the result will be imperfect: the plates are not stable, with shells and have an unsightly appearance. In general, we must find a middle ground. Experienced to select the required size of fractions of sand and gravel mixture for the preparation of concrete, using for sifting gravel a grid with cells of the necessary sizes. This also affects both the type of tiles and their strength. With the use of sand concrete strength decreases, and the time for increasing the strength, so I excluded this option. When using large gravel without sifting strength is not bad, but the type of tiles (especially with thickness 3-4 cm) I did not like.
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For me, the best option was a mixture of small-gravel gravel with coarse sand. First, the smeared plastic molds are poured with concrete to a height slightly more than half their height (Figure 1), I lay the scraps of metal mesh or bars of the rest of the reinforcement and then fill it with concrete to the edges. The tile will be more durable if the individual rods of the armature are tied together by a knitting wire. We must carefully monitor that the reinforcement is covered with concrete from all sides. Surplus of concrete after pouring is removed from the surface and leveled by its trowel.